Honey Bee Biology

Before you get bees, it helps to really understand how they work. A solid grasp of bee biology makes everything else about beekeeping easier. You don’t need to be a scientist, but knowing what’s going on inside the hive helps you make better decisions and avoid a lot of mistakes.

Three Types of Bees in a Hive

A honey bee colony is a superorganism, meaning it functions like one big living thing. It’s made up of three types of bees (called castes):

• Queen Bee : She lays all the eggs. One queen per hive.

• Worker Bees : All female, infertile, and make up 90%+ of the hive. They do everything else: clean, defend, feed, and forage.

• Drones : The male bees. Their only job is to mate with a queen.

Each of these bees has a different role, body type, and lifespan. They work together as a team. No bee can survive very long on its own.

The Basics of Bee Anatomy

All honey bees have three main body parts: head, thorax, and abdomen.

• Head : Has five eyes, two antennae, and a tongue (proboscis). The antennae help bees smell, taste, feel, and even detect temperature and humidity.

• Thorax : Where the wings and legs attach. This part powers flight.

• Abdomen : Contains the stomach and stinger (for queens and workers).

Worker bees have a barbed stinger, so when they sting, it usually means death for them. Queen stingers are smooth and can be used more than once, but they’re only used on other queens.

Worker Bee Life

Worker bees cycle through jobs as they age. Early on, they clean cells and feed larvae. Later, they take on guarding duties, and eventually become foragers. In spring and summer, they live about 6 weeks. In winter, when they don’t fly much, they can live several months.

Drones

Drones don’t forage or defend the hive. They mate with queens from other hives and die right after mating. During a nectar dearth or in winter, they get kicked out of the hive since they don’t contribute and just use up resources.

Queen Bee

The queen’s job is to lay eggs—up to 2,500 per day at her peak. She lives for 1-3 years, depending on how well-mated she is. If she starts to run out of sperm or fails, the colony will replace her. Worker bees rear new queens from fertilized eggs by feeding them only royal jelly.

How Bees Are Born

Bees go through four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The timeline depends on the caste:

• Worker : 21 days

• Queen : 16 days

• Drone : 24 days

The queen lays an egg in a wax cell. After hatching, the larva is fed royal jelly and later bee bread (a mix of pollen and nectar). It spins a cocoon, pupates, and finally emerges as an adult.

Whether a fertilized egg becomes a queen or a worker depends on what it's fed and the size of the cell it's laid in. Bigger cells mean drones, and smaller ones mean workers.

What a Colony Needs to Thrive

Honey bee colonies rely on four resources:

1. Pollen : Protein source used to feed young bees. Stored as bee bread.

2. Nectar : Collected and converted into honey. It’s their energy source.

3. Water : Used to cool the hive and dilute honey for feeding.

4. Propolis : Made from plant resins. Used to seal cracks, sanitize the hive, and even mummify invaders.

Swarming: Colony Reproduction

When the hive gets crowded or conditions are right, bees prepare to swarm. Half the colony leaves with the old queen to start a new colony. The bees left behind raise a new queen. It’s how colonies reproduce.

Bee Communication

Bees communicate mostly through pheromones and movement. Their antennae are packed with sensors. They also do the famous waggle dance to tell others where to find food.

Key pheromones include:

• Queen pheromone : Keeps the hive orderly and tells workers a queen is present.

• Alarm pheromone : Smells like bananas. Warns of threats.

• Nasanov pheromone : Helps bees find their way back to the hive.

• Footprint pheromone : Helps mark comb and discourage new queen cells.

• Brood pheromone : Comes from larvae. Tells workers to feed them and affects foraging behavior.

If queen or brood pheromones go missing too long, some workers may develop ovaries and start laying unfertilized eggs—which only turn into drones. This is called a laying worker colony, and it’s tough to reverse.

This chapter sets the foundation. Next up: where bees live and how they build their comb.

A Honey Bee’s Home

When we talk about a honey bee’s home, we’re not just talking about the wooden hive you set up. That’s just the structure. The real home is the comb the bees build inside. Beeswax comb is where everything happens—brood rearing, food storage, and communication.

What is Beeswax Comb?

Beeswax is produced by worker bees aged 12–18 days. They convert honey into wax using glands on the underside of their abdomen. It comes out in thin flakes, which they chew and form into hexagon-shaped cells.

To make just one pound of wax, bees need to eat about eight pounds of honey. That’s why comb-building only happens during strong nectar flows. If natural nectar isn’t available, you can feed sugar syrup to help them build.

What Bees Use the Comb For

• Brood nest : Where eggs are laid and baby bees grow.

• Food storage : Pollen and nectar are stored here. Pollen gets turned into bee bread. Nectar gets turned into honey.

• Cooling system : Bees fan water in the comb to cool the hive in summer.

• Communication : Bees use vibration through the comb to send messages.

Comb Color Changes

Fresh comb starts out white, almost see-through. It gets darker over time from use—especially from pollen oils, propolis lining, and leftover cocoons from brood cycles. Older comb can turn brown or black. That’s normal, but many beekeepers rotate out older frames yearly to keep things clean and healthy.

How Bees Build in the Wild

In nature, bees look for enclosed, sheltered spaces with small entrances—tree trunks, owl boxes, sheds, even wall voids. The entrance size helps them defend against pests.

They build the comb in vertical sheets, creating a central brood nest surrounded by food stores. Drones are usually raised around the outer edges of the brood nest. If the colony gets cold, bees cluster in the middle to protect the queen and worker brood first. Drone brood on the outer edge acts as a buffer.

Understanding Bee Space

Bees follow strict spacing rules. If the space is too small (< 1/4"), they fill it with propolis. If it’s too big (> 3/8"), they build comb. This concept, called “bee space,” is the reason modern hives work so well. It lets you inspect the hive without destroying comb.

Identifying What You’re Seeing

Here’s how to tell what’s what when you open your hive:

• Comb : Starts white, darkens with use.

• Queen : Long abdomen, moves with purpose. Wings shorter than abdomen.

• Drone : Large, rounded body. Big eyes meet at the top of the head.

• Worker : Smaller than the others. Hairy bodies and tattered wings as they age.

• Eggs : Tiny, like a grain of rice, stuck to the bottom of cells.

• Larvae : Look like tiny white grubs curled in cells.

• Pupae : Capped brood. Worker caps are flat; drone caps are dome-shaped.

• Bee Bread : Shiny, packed pollen with layers of color.

• Honey : Sealed with wax. Doesn’t spill out when shaken.

• Nectar : Glossy and wet. Shakes out easily.

Queen cells look like peanuts and stick out from the comb. If they’re uncapped and empty, they’re called nubbins—practice cells the bees might use later.

Here’s Chapter 3 for your reference:

Honey Bee Nutrition

To be a good beekeeper, you have to understand what bees eat and when they need help. Nutrition impacts everything: brood health, colony strength, and honey production.

What Bees Need

Honey bees need macronutrients (carbohydrates, proteins, lipids) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals) just like we do.

• Carbohydrates give them energy. Bees get it from nectar and honey.

• Protein builds and repairs bodies. They get it from pollen.

• Lipids (fats) support brood development and healthy cell function. Found in pollen.

• Vitamins & minerals come from pollen, some nectar, and water. Darker honeys usually have more minerals.

Who Needs What

• Larvae need lots of protein and royal jelly.

• Worker bees need energy to fly and protein to develop glands.

• Queens get a steady diet of royal jelly.

• Drones don’t gather food, but they consume a lot of it.

Poor nutrition during development weakens bees for life. If a weak generation emerges during honey flow, you can end up with no surplus and a hungry hive going into winter.

Where Bees Get Their Food

Bees forage up to 3–5 miles to gather:

• Pollen (protein and fat)

• Nectar (carbs)

• Water (to cool the hive and dilute honey)

• Plant resins (to make propolis)

They use scent and UV vision to locate flowers. Many flowers have UV markings (nectar guides) visible only to bees. This directs them to nectar sources efficiently.

Waggle Dancing for Dinner

Once a bee finds a good food source, she comes back to the hive and performs a waggle dance. The direction, duration, and angle of the waggle tells other bees where to go. It's a GPS system in the dark.

Bees also mark good food spots and the hive entrance with pheromones so others can find their way.

Here’s Chapter 4: Getting Started with Beekeeping in full:

Getting Started with Beekeeping

Starting with bees doesn’t have to be overwhelming, but it helps to go in with a plan. Here's a rundown of what you need, what to expect, and how to set yourself up for success.

Choosing Your Hive Equipment

The most common setup is the Langstroth hive —stacked boxes with removable frames. It’s easy to manage and inspect.

Basic components you’ll need:

• Bottom board (solid or screened)

• Entrance reducer (helps control airflow and pests)

• Deep boxes for brood (usually 1–2)

• Medium or shallow boxes for honey

• Frames with foundation (waxed plastic or wired wax)

• Inner cover and outer cover

Other hive types like top-bar or horizontal hives can work too, but parts and help may be harder to find.

Protective Gear

Don’t skimp here. A good veil or suit helps you relax during inspections. Gloves are great when you’re starting out.

Essentials:

• Bee suit or jacket with veil

• Gloves (optional but recommended)

• Closed-toe shoes or boots

Basic Tools

Just a few essentials will do:

• Hive tool (your must-have for every visit)

• Smoker (helps calm the bees)

• Bee brush (for gently moving bees)

Choosing a Location

Good hive placement matters:

• Morning sun exposure

• Wind protection

• Good drainage (avoid low, wet spots)

• Nearby water source (shallow dish with rocks works great)

• Room behind the hive to stand and inspect

Avoid placing hives near doors, patios, or busy walkways.

Buying Bees

You can start with:

1. Nucs (nucleus colonies): Come with bees, a queen, brood, and food—ideal for beginners.

2. Packages : A box of bees with a caged queen. More setup needed, but widely available.

3. Swarms : Free if you catch them, but less predictable.

When to Start

Install your bees in early spring when daily temps are consistently above 50°F. That gives them a full season to grow before winter.

Take a Class or Find a Mentor

You’ll learn way more, way faster. Join a local bee club, take a course, or ask another beekeeper for help. Watching someone open a hive makes everything less intimidating.

Let me know if you want the next chapter too.

Here’s Chapter 5: Hive Inspections :

Hive Inspections

Once your bees are installed and flying, you’ve got to check in on them. Regular hive inspections help you keep your colony healthy, prevent swarming, and catch issues before they get out of control. But don’t worry—this doesn’t mean opening the hive every day.

When to Inspect

Check your hive every 7–14 days during spring and summer. That’s often enough to track brood patterns and spot early signs of swarming. In fall, inspect every few weeks. In winter, just observe flight and check food stores without opening the hive.

Avoid inspections when:

• It’s rainy or windy

• It’s below 60°F

• The nectar flow has stopped and bees are cranky

Mid-morning to early afternoon on warm, sunny days is ideal. Foragers will be out working, so fewer bees will be home.

What You’re Looking For

Each inspection should be quick and focused. Here’s a checklist:

• Is the queen present? (You don’t have to see her—just look for eggs.)

• Is there a healthy brood pattern? (Solid, even patches of capped brood)

• Any signs of swarming? (Queen cells, crowded frames)

• Are they storing honey and pollen?

• Any pests or diseases? (Mites, beetles, wax moths)

It gets easier to read a hive the more you do it. Trust your gut—if something seems off, it probably is.

Tips for Smooth Inspections

• Use your smoker! A few gentle puffs at the entrance and under the lid go a long way.

• Work slowly and confidently. Jumpy movements rile up bees.

• Start with the outer frames and work inward.

• Don’t crush bees—gently move frames and lids.

• Stay calm. If bees get aggressive, close up and try another day.

Taking Notes

Keep a notebook, app, or printed checklist handy. Log what you saw: brood pattern, number of frames covered in bees, queen sighting, any concerns. These notes will help you see trends and plan treatments or feeding.

Let me know if you want Chapter 6 next.

Here’s Chapter 6: Common Problems in the Hive :

Common Problems in the Hive

Even strong hives can run into trouble. The key is learning how to spot problems early and knowing how to respond.

Varroa Mites

These external parasites attach to adult bees and developing brood. They weaken bees and spread viruses. Left untreated, they’ll collapse the hive.

What to look for:

• Mites on drone brood or adult bees

• Deformed wings or stunted bees

• Spotty brood pattern

What to do:

• Test mite levels regularly with sugar rolls or alcohol washes

• Treat with approved methods (like Apivar, oxalic acid, or formic acid) when thresholds are met

Small Hive Beetles

These beetles lay eggs in the hive. Their larvae ruin comb and ferment honey.

What to look for:

• Slime or a fermented smell

• Larvae crawling on comb

• Beetles running across frames

What to do:

• Use beetle traps

• Keep hives strong and in full sun

• Don’t leave empty equipment lying around

Wax Moths

These pests move in when a hive is weak or dead. They destroy comb, chew wood, and leave silky tunnels and webbing.

What to do:

• Keep hives strong

• Freeze unused frames before storage

Queen Issues

Queens can die, fail, or be poorly mated.

What to look for:

• No eggs or only drone brood

• Multiple eggs per cell (a sign of laying workers)

• Spotty or missing brood

What to do:

• Combine with another hive

• Requeen with a mated queen

• Add a frame of eggs from a good hive to encourage them to raise a new queen

Swarming

A natural process, but it weakens your hive.

What to look for:

• Queen cups or queen cells

• Nectar being stored in the brood nest

What to do:

• Make a split

• Reorganize frames to give space

• Remove excess queen cells (if appropriate)

Robbing

Other bees will steal honey when there’s little nectar available.

What to look for:

• Frenzied activity at the entrance

• Bees fighting

• Torn cappings inside the hive

What to do:

• Reduce entrance size

• Don’t leave syrup or wet supers out

• Use robbing screens if needed

Let me know if you’d like Chapter 7.

Here’s Chapter 7: Feeding Your Bees :

Feeding Your Bees

Bees prefer to feed themselves from natural forage, but there are times when you’ll need to step in and give them a hand. Feeding helps build up young colonies, sustain hives during nectar dearths, and support bees during winter prep.

When to Feed

Feed your bees when:

• You install a new package or nuc

• Nectar sources are low (especially in late summer or fall)

• You’re preparing bees for winter and they’re light on stores

• You’re trying to stimulate brood production in spring

Don’t feed when honey supers are on —you don’t want sugar syrup mixed into your harvest.

What to Feed

1:1 Sugar Syrup (1 part sugar to 1 part water)
Use in spring to stimulate brood rearing.

2:1 Sugar Syrup (2 parts sugar to 1 part water)
Use in fall to help bees store up for winter.

Dry Sugar or Candy Boards
Used in winter when it’s too cold for syrup.

Pollen Substitute or Supplement
Feed when natural pollen is scarce (like early spring or droughts).

How to Feed

Entrance Feeders
Simple but can attract robbers—best used when it’s warm and there’s no dearth.

Top Feeders (Bucket or Hive-top)
Great for larger volumes. Reduces robbing risk.

Frame Feeders
Go inside the brood box. Effective, but bees can drown if it’s not a good design.

Candy Boards or Dry Sugar
Used in winter directly over the cluster.

Feeding Tips

• Always use white granulated sugar (never brown sugar, honey, or molasses)

• Keep feeders clean to avoid mold or fermentation

• Only feed when needed—don’t make bees reliant on it

Want me to keep going with Chapter 8?

Here’s Chapter 8: Beekeeping Through the Seasons :

Beekeeping Through the Seasons

Beekeeping isn’t a set-it-and-forget-it hobby. What you do depends on the season. Bees have different needs throughout the year, and your job is to keep up with them as the seasons change.

Spring

Spring is all about growth. Colonies expand rapidly and need space.

• Watch for swarming—colonies build up fast

• Add boxes as the brood nest fills

• Feed 1:1 syrup if nectar is low

• Requeen weak hives

• Monitor mites and treat if needed

• Make splits if hives are booming

Summer

This is often the main honey flow—if you’re lucky.

• Add honey supers before they fill up

• Watch for congestion and swarming signs

• Provide water and ventilation

• Watch for robbing and queen issues

• Keep an eye on mites—mid-summer spikes are common

Fall

Fall is about preparing for winter. You’re helping bees raise a strong final batch of workers.

• Feed 2:1 syrup if stores are low

• Optionally feed pollen substitute to boost brood

• Remove extra boxes

• Reduce entrances and install mouse guards

• Finish mite treatments early before temps drop

Winter

In winter, bees cluster for warmth. There’s not much to do—but don’t disappear entirely.

• Make sure hives are ventilated and protected from wind

• Check weight by lifting the back of the hive

• Add candy boards or dry sugar if needed

• Watch for moisture buildup

• Avoid opening the hive unless absolutely necessary

Want to see Chapter 9 next?

Here’s Chapter 9: Splitting Hives and Expanding Your Apiary :

Splitting Hives and Expanding Your Apiary

Once you’re comfortable with one or two hives, you might want more. Expanding your apiary can be done without buying more bees—just split the colonies you already have. Splitting also helps prevent swarming and gives you insurance against queen failure.

Why Split a Hive?

• Prevent swarms in strong colonies

• Raise new queens

• Create backup hives in case one fails

• Grow your operation without buying more bees

When to Split

Late spring to early summer is ideal. You want:

• Warm weather

• Drones in the air (for queen mating)

• A strong hive with lots of brood and bees

How to Make a Simple Split (Walk-Away Method)

1. Find a strong hive with eggs, brood, and plenty of bees

2. Move 3–5 frames into a new hive box (include brood, eggs, honey, and pollen)

3. Shake in some extra bees if needed

4. Close up both hives

5. Walk away—the new colony will raise its own queen

Or you can introduce a mated queen instead for quicker results.

What You’ll Need

• Extra hive body and lid

• Bottom board

• Feeders (if there's no nectar flow)

• Queen excluder (optional for vertical splits)

Aftercare

• Check in 7–10 days for queen cells

• Don’t disturb capped queen cells

• Give them 3–4 weeks to raise a queen, let her mate, and start laying

Be patient. Rushing it can disrupt the queen's development and lead to failure.

Let me know if you'd like Chapter 10 next.

Here’s Chapter 10: Collecting and Catching Swarms :

Collecting and Catching Swarms

Catching a swarm is one of the most exciting parts of beekeeping. It’s a chance to get free bees, usually with a mated queen, and it’s often a sign of a healthy, productive colony.

Why Catch a Swarm?

• Free bees

• Usually healthy and ready to build

• Already have a queen

• Fun and rewarding experience

When Do Bees Swarm?

Most swarming happens in spring and early summer, especially after a few warm days following rain. Peak hours are mid-morning to early afternoon on calm, sunny days.

What You Need

• Ventilated box or nuc

• Pruners or loppers

• Bee brush or feather

• Spray bottle with sugar water

• Ladder (if they’re up high)

• Protective gear (recommended)

Optional but helpful:

• Queen clip or cage

• Swarm lure (lemongrass oil works well)

• Tarp or sheet to catch falling bees

How to Catch a Swarm

1. Find the cluster, usually hanging from a branch or structure

2. Shake or brush the bees gently into your container

3. Watch for fanning behavior—that means the queen’s inside

4. Close the box and take them to your apiary

If they fly off, the queen may still be outside. Give it another shot.

After the Catch

• Install them into a hive within 24 hours

• Feed 1:1 sugar syrup if no nectar is flowing

• Check in a few days for eggs or brood

Tips

• Stay calm—swarms are usually very gentle

• Don’t chase them mid-flight

• Tell local pest control or neighbors you’re available for swarm calls

Want to keep going with Chapter 11?

Harvesting Honey

Harvesting honey is one of the biggest rewards in beekeeping—but timing, technique, and care for your bees all matter. You want to do it right, both for your bees and your jars.

When to Harvest

Only harvest fully capped honey —that’s honey sealed with white wax. If it’s still shiny and uncapped, it has too much moisture and can ferment.

Most folks harvest:

• Late spring and/or late summer

• After supers are full and nectar flow slows down

How Much to Take

Leave at least 60 pounds of honey for your bees going into winter (about one full deep box). Don’t take more than they can spare.

How to Harvest

1. Clear the bees from the honey super:

   • Use a fume board

   • Try a bee escape board

   • Gently blow them off or brush them

2. Uncap the frames with a hot knife, cappings scratcher, or uncapping roller

3. Extract using a centrifugal extractor (borrow one if needed)

4. Strain the honey through a filter or cheesecloth

5. Bottle in clean, dry containers

What If You Don’t Have an Extractor?

You can crush and strain comb:

• Cut the comb from the frame

• Mash it in a strainer

• Let it drip through a filter into a bucket

Takes longer, but works fine for small batches.

Cleaning Up

• Return sticky frames to the bees—they’ll clean them up

• Don’t leave them out in the open or you’ll trigger robbing

Final Tips

• Label jars with harvest date and location

• Store in a cool, dry place

• If it crystallizes, warm gently in hot water (not the microwave)

• Never feed harvested honey to other colonies—it could spread disease

Let me know if you want Chapter 12 next.

Here’s Chapter 12: When a Hive Dies (Dealing with Deadouts) :

When a Hive Dies (Dealing with Deadouts)

Losing a hive is frustrating—but it happens, even to experienced beekeepers. The key is to learn from it and use the loss to make your other hives stronger.

Common Reasons Hives Die

• Starvation – They ran out of food in late winter or early spring

• Varroa mites – Weakened the bees or spread viruses

• Queen failure – The colony became queenless and didn’t recover

• Moisture – Condensation dripped onto the cluster and chilled them

• Too small a cluster – Not enough bees to stay warm through winter

Signs of a Deadout

• No live bees in the hive

• Bees headfirst in cells (starvation)

• Moldy or chewed comb

• Wax moth or mouse damage

• Spotty brood patterns before death

• Dead bees at the entrance or on the bottom board

What to Do With the Equipment

• Clean and reuse : If no sign of disease

• Freeze the frames : Kills pests like wax moths or beetles

• Scorch woodenware if there’s mold

• Discard if you suspect American Foulbrood (look for ropey brood)

Reusing Honey

If it’s clean and unfermented, you can feed it back to other colonies or extract it for yourself. Never feed questionable frames to bees.

Learn From It

Ask yourself:

• Was the hive light or heavy?

• Did you check mite loads in fall?

• How was the queen performance?

Every deadout gives you info. Don’t take it personally—use it to improve.

Want Chapter 13 next?

Here’s Chapter 13: Final Gear + Tips Roundup :

Final Gear + Tips Roundup

As you wrap up your first year (or start planning for it), here’s a quick list of tools, gear, and habits that make beekeeping smoother, safer, and more enjoyable.

Must-Have Gear

• Hive tool – your #1 essential

• Smoker – calms bees and buys you time

• Bee suit or jacket with veil – for comfort and confidence

• Gloves – especially early on

• Feeder – for spring and fall support

• Spare boxes and frames – always handy

• Notebook or app – to log what you see

Handy Extras

• Frame holder – keeps frames safe while inspecting

• Queen marking pen or cage – easier to track your queen

• Mite test kits – for sugar roll or alcohol wash

• Tarp or old sheet – for swarm catching or messy jobs

• Bucket with lid – for hauling tools or wax scraps

Good Habits

• Test for mites regularly—not just when bees look sick

• Keep inspection notes so you can see patterns

• Start small and grow slow

• Ask for help—it’s part of beekeeping

• Watch your bees daily, even without opening the hive

Where to Learn More

• Join a local bee club

• Take a beginner class

• Follow trustworthy blogs and YouTube channels

• Read about different treatment plans and seasonal practices

Beekeeping is a mix of science and intuition. You’ll make mistakes—everyone does. The important thing is to keep learning, stay curious, and support your bees the best you can.

Let me know if you’d like Chapter 14 too.

Here’s Chapter 14: Sustainable Beekeeping Practices :

Sustainable Beekeeping Practices

As you grow as a beekeeper, it’s worth thinking about sustainability—not just for your bees, but for your whole approach. Sustainable beekeeping means working with nature, not constantly fighting it.

Don’t Overharvest

Always leave plenty of honey for the bees. It’s their winter food. Taking too much puts your colony at risk and leads to unnecessary feeding or losses.

Let Bees Reproduce Naturally

Swarming is how bees reproduce as a colony. Instead of trying to prevent every swarm, plan for them. Make splits ahead of time or be ready to catch your own swarms. It's a natural way to expand and maintain strong genetics.

Raise Your Own Queens

Instead of buying queens every year, learn to raise a few from your own best colonies. Local queens tend to survive better and are already adapted to your climate and foraging conditions.

Use Natural Comb When Possible

Letting bees draw their own comb—especially in brood boxes—can reduce chemical buildup and give the bees more control over how they manage space. It's a bit messier, but often healthier.

Rethink Treatments

You don’t have to go treatment-free, but you should monitor closely. Use sugar rolls or alcohol washes to keep tabs on mites. Treat only when needed, and use methods that are effective but gentle (like formic or oxalic acid). Stay flexible and observant.

Plant for Pollinators

What grows around your bees matters. Plant native flowers, avoid pesticides, and leave some wild areas. The more bloom diversity and forage you offer, the healthier your bees (and local pollinators) will be.

Sustainability doesn’t mean doing it perfectly. It means doing it mindfully—with the long-term health of your bees, your land, and your community in mind.