Swarm season comes in fast, and if you’re not ready, you can miss your chance. Whether it’s a call from a neighbor or a swarm hanging in your own backyard, having a ready-to-go kit in your vehicle makes catching swarms more fun and successful. This guide is for active swarm catching—not bait hives—and it’s packed with field-tested tips and gear from beekeepers who do this every season.
Swarm catching is fast-paced and fun, but you’ve got to be ready. This guide helps you build the perfect in-vehicle swarm kit.
From timing swarms by bloom to organizing your gear, this article shares field-tested advice to help you safely and successfully catch swarms.
Learn how to prepare, what gear to carry, when swarms happen by region, and key questions to ask before heading out to collect.
Table of Contents
Introduction to Swarm Catching Why Swarm Kits Matter When Do Swarming Patterns Happen? Early vs. Late Swarms Vehicle Storage and Organization Safety Precautions Understanding Swarm Biology Checklist: Swarm Catching Kit Questions to Ask Before You Go Examples and Tips from Experienced Beekeepers For Collecting Swarms Wrap-Up
Introduction to Swarm Catching
Catching swarms is a bit like being a cowboy. You don't know when you are going to work, but you need to be ready. When you get a swarm call, you don't have much time, and you just need to go before the swarm leaves. Swarms are not around for long, and the person reporting it may not be giving you good information. So it is risky, but sometimes the reward is worth it.
When you are willing to go out and catch swarms from the public, it is helpful to be ready for it and to also know the right questions to ask so you don't waste your time.
Why Swarm Kits Matter
Swarms don’t wait around. The best ones show up early in the season—usually big, healthy, and easy to hive. You don’t want to be scrambling for supplies when that first call comes in. Keep a kit in your car or truck all spring, and you’ll be ready to roll.
Beekeepers often say the best swarms are the ones that come when the good weather breaks—usually the first warm day after a cold snap in the spring. Or the first dry day after a rainy spell in the spring. Colonies start to feel the space crunch during a cold spell or a wet spell, and if there’s an old queen and plenty of bees , they’ll swarm the first chance they get. If you wait to get your kit ready until you see your neighbors posting swarm photos on Facebook, you might already be too late. It pays to be ready.
This includes both the tools you need to capture the swarm, as well as the equipment to put the swarm into after catching them.
When Do Swarming Patterns Happen?
Timing depends a lot on your region, but using USDA Plant Hardiness Zones can give you a general idea:
Zones 8-10 (South) – Swarms can start as early as February or March and often occur within a few weeks.
Zones 6-7 (Mid-US) – Most swarms appear in March, April, and May.
Zones 4-5 (North) – Expect swarms May through June.
Watch your local blooms. When redbuds pop and dandelions cover lawns, bees start moving. Tulip poplars blooming in the south? That’s often peak swarm time. Other plants that can signal the start of the swarm season include dogwoods, apple blossoms, and wild cherry trees. Some folks even track swarm timing with journals from past years. You can usually tie them to certain trees that bloom. This is because when plants are blooming, the bees are collecting resources and growing.
Extended growth with inadequate room in the hive is a recipe for swarming.
Beekeepers in different regions keep their own notes. In Alabama, for example, we usually see our first calls in mid-March. In northern states like Wisconsin or Maine, it’s more like late May. Use your planting zone and bloom timing as a local guide.
Early vs. Late Swarms
Early swarms are bigger, stronger, and better. They’ve got time to build comb, raise brood, and store honey before fall.
Late-season swarms (July or later) may struggle to get established, especially if nectar flows slow down, leading to an increase in challenges they face.
Catch them if you want, but know they might need more help, like feeding or combining with another hive.
Some late swarms are afterswarms—smaller groups that leave after the first primary swarm. These might have a virgin queen or even no queen at all. They’re riskier. If you catch one, it’s worth checking for queen presence and considering combining it with a small hive you already have.
Catching a swarm is not a guarantee that they will do well. So that is another risk that you take.
Vehicle Storage and Organization
When it comes to swarm catching, having a well-organized vehicle is half the battle won.
Your vehicle should already have the tools you need, equipped with all the gear to handle any swarming situation. Think of it as your swarm-catching toolkit on wheels.
Essential items to carry include nets, containers, drawn brood comb, protective gear, Swarm Commander , a brush, a queen clip , and a way to cut a branch.
Usually, most of the gear can be stored in a pro-nuc, which is in of itself a very handy tool for catching swarms. We sell a lot of nucs in pro-nucs and encourage customers to keep them for catching swarms.
Safety Precautions
Safety should always be a top priority when dealing with swarms. These buzzing masses can pose significant risks, so taking the right precautions is essential.
Always wear enough protective clothing and gear to minimize the risk of stings or injuries.
This also applies to others in the area, especially if you are doing it in public. You need the public to stay away, or if they are helping, they need protection too.
Generally, bees in a swarm do not sting, but when it is a fresh swarm, they are more lively and apt to sting.
Just don't assume because it's a swarm it won't sting. Nobody will think less of you if you wear protection. Don't be a dummy.
Understanding Swarm Biology
Knowing how swarms work biologically can make a huge difference in how successful you are at catching them. A swarm is a super-organism on the move—about half the bees from a hive , including the old queen, leaving to start fresh. They’re not just hanging out for fun. They’re deeply committed to finding a safe new home.
The queen releases pheromones that keep the swarm cohesive and calm. These chemical signals help the bees stay clustered and follow her wherever she goes. While she isn't leading the swarm, she is the anchor for it. When you shake a swarm into a box and the queen lands inside, you’ll often see the rest of the bees quickly march in. That’s because they can smell her and are hardwired to stay with her.
Bees are also highly motivated to move into places that smell like other bees have lived there. Old comb, wax, and even propolis from previous colonies are big attractants. That’s why a used nuc box with a bit of old comb often outperforms a brand-new box. Their biology is pushing them to follow the scent trail of a proven home.
Weather plays a role too. Swarms tend to move during warm, sunny windows—especially after a stretch of rain. Cold or stormy conditions can cause them to delay their move or cluster tightly for days in one spot. The best part? Swarms are usually very gentle. They don’t have brood or food to defend, so they’re not aggressive. Knowing that can give you the confidence to work more calmly and make smart moves.
The more you understand what a swarm is trying to do—and how their biology drives them—the better you can guide them where you want them to go. It’s not just about gear. It’s about reading the bees.
Checklist: Swarm Catching Kit
Here’s a list of gear that you can keep handy.
Protective gear – Jacket, veil, gloves. Swarms are usually calm, but don’t risk it.
2 Nuc boxes or 2 Pro Nucs or a Hive Butler – A ventilated container with frames. Way better than a bucket.
White sheet or drop cloth – Spread it under the swarm to catch stragglers.
Pruners or loppers – For cutting branches when swarms are clustered on them.
Swarm Commander – the spray version is great for this.
Spray bottle of water – Light misting helps calm the bees and keeps them from flying with or without sugar in it.
Bee brush or turkey feather – For gently brushing bees into the box .
Duct tape – Always useful: seal boxes, attach screens, fix gear.
Screen for ventilation – If you use a cardboard box or something homemade. The bees need airflow.
Ratchet straps – To secure your box in the vehicle.
Flashlight or headlamp – For late evening or shaded catches, ideally with a red light. Bees fly towards white lights. Even better is a light near you that cast light on the swarm and not coming from your head.
Queen clip or cage (optional) – Handy if you spot the queen. Metal ones are better than plastic.
Smoker (optional) – Not always needed, but handy if bees are defensive.
Step ladder – For swarms just out of reach. Folding, telescoping ladders work great.
Spare veil or gloves – For a helper, or in case your gear rips.
Questions to Ask Before You Go
It's tempting to get the call and go immediately, but asking a few questions will help you make sure it's worth your time. Always ask for a photo. It goes a long way in sorting out the next question. Get a photo as close as possible and also one showing the scale. You don't want to get a picture of a cluster of bees and then find out it's really high in a tree.
“Are they honey bees ?” – Get a photo if you’re unsure. Could be wasps, carpenter bees or ground bees (and often are).
“How high up are they?” – Anything over 15 ft might need a ladder or pole or not be worth it. If they are on the ground, you have to go about collecting them a different way. Maybe the queen is dead or injured. A ground swarm can often mean that.
“How long have they been there?” – If more than a few days, it may leave soon. If it's more than a week, it might be an established colony. If only for a few minutes, it may leave soon. If it's several weeks you know that it's a established colony and needs a cutout.
“Are they exposed?” – Inside walls or structures means it’s not a swarm.
“Did anyone spray them?” – Sprayed swarms are not worth your time.
“How big is the swarm?” – Size helps you plan. A basketball-size cluster might need more space than a football-size one. A baseball-sized swarm might not be worth your time.
“Can I access the area easily?” – Fenced yard? Dogs? Locked gates? Is it their property?
8. "Is there another beekeeper coming?" - This one is handy because if you do want to go get it, you want to make
sure another beekeeper is already going. This is helpful in very public places where multiple people might be calling
around.
If it’s not easy to access or clearly honey bees , don’t be afraid to say no. Your time is valuable. Also, if you do decide to go, make sure they update you if they leave. You don't want to show up and the bees have already left
Examples and Tips from Experienced Beekeepers For Collecting Swarms
These are some tips and tricks that will help you be more successful. Experience really pays off in beekeeping and that applies to swarm catching as well. Most very experienced beekeepers do not go get swarms as there are easier ways for them to produce bees. But for new beekeepers, catching swarms is a lot of fun.
Keep a frame old brood comb in your swarm box—it smells like home to bees.
DIY telescoping pole with a 5- gallon bucket taped to it works great for high swarms.
Always carry extra gear —straps, screen, even an extra veil.
Swarms march toward the queen —if she’s in the box, the rest will follow.
Late swarms can be combined with weaker colonies if they’re too small.
Use a Buzz Bag to make transporting the swarm easier, there are 3 sizes of them.
Give it time – Once the queen is in the box, the rest may take 60 minutes for the rest to follow.
Be ready to return – Sometimes it takes two trips, especially if bees don’t settle fast. Leaving them overnight to move into the box is normal.
Big swarms need big boxes – it is not uncommon for a swarm to be 30,000 bees in the beginning of the year. That is more than will easily fit in a pro nuc, so be prepared with a deep box as well.
One trick some folks use is to place the nuc box right under the swarm and give the branch a gentle shake. If you’re lucky and the queen falls in, you can watch the rest walk right in over the next 20 minutes. This is ideal.
Wrap-Up
Swarm catching is one of the best parts of beekeeping. Free bees, a little adventure, and the chance to help your community. One thing I really liked about it was the chance to do some extra education. Keep your kit packed, your gear ready, and you’ll be prepared to catch swarms like a pro.
Stay safe and happy swarm chasing!
Adam Hickman owns Foxhound Bee Company and is a certified EAS Master Beekeeper. Before ever selling a box through Foxhound Bee Company, Adam wrote beekeeping blogs for education. Adam regularly teaches beekeeping classes through Foxhound Bee Co and also through his local beekeeping club.